Quick answer
Dry shrinking means heat-forming the film on dry glass, with no slip solution under it, so the film stays put and the heat goes straight into the curve. The Onyx team prefers it because it is faster and more predictable. Wet shrinking still has uses, such as pre-shrinking side windows or testing a very curved panel.
In this clip from the Santa Fe install, Julio explains why he dry shrinks almost every back glass, and why installers who still wet shrink should try it. He lays his line and starts shrinking on camera.
Key takeaways
- Dry shrinking holds the film still, so the heat goes into the curve instead of chasing a floating panel.
- Lay your line first, then shrink: anchor, find the fingers, work them down with even heat.
- Wet shrinking is still useful for pre-shrinking side windows and testing very curved glass.
- A film that shrinks evenly makes the switch to dry shrinking much easier to learn.
What the difference is
Wet shrinking puts slip solution between the film and the glass, so the film floats while you heat it. Dry shrinking skips the water: the film sits directly on clean, dry glass, and static and friction hold it where you placed it. Because the panel does not slide, every pass of the heat gun goes into the curve you are trying to form.
Why we prefer dry shrinking
In Julio’s words, dry shrinking makes it so much easier to shrink the film. The panel stays where you set it, you see the fingers form and lay down in real time, and there is no water running into the gun or across the rear deck. For the full method on steep back glass, including anchor points and the H-line pattern, see dry shrinking a back glass without fingers.
The sequence
- Clean the outside of the glass and leave it completely dry.
- Lay the film liner side out and set your line so the panel sits square.
- Anchor the centre, then find where the fingers form along the curves.
- Heat one finger at a time with an even, moving pattern and lay it down with a soft card.
- Work from the centre out until the whole panel sits flat, then trim and move inside.
Where wet shrinking still makes sense
Julio still uses wet shrinking in a few spots: pre-shrinking side windows before install, testing a panel, or a very curvy window where he wants to see how the film behaves first. It is a tool, not the default.
Film choice
Dry shrinking rewards film that takes heat evenly and does not haze or burn. Onyx Ceramic+ and Onyx Ceramic both shrink with a wide, forgiving window, which is why they are the films we teach the method on.
Films mentioned in this post
Onyx Ceramic+ 5%
96% IR · 71% TSER · 99%+ UV
The back-glass roll in this clip. $652 a 40" roll.
From $652 Shop →
Onyx Ceramic 20%
68% IR · 53% TSER · 99%+ UV
Even shrink at a lower price. $372 a 40" roll.
From $372 Shop →
Questions shops ask
Is dry shrinking faster than wet shrinking?
For most back glass, yes. The film does not float, so you spend the time shrinking instead of repositioning.
When should I still wet shrink?
Pre-shrinking side windows, testing a panel, or very curved glass where you want to see how the film moves first.
Does dry shrinking work on ceramic film?
Yes. Onyx Ceramic and Ceramic+ are what our team dry shrinks every day.
Onyx Distribution supplies wholesale window film to professional tint shops across the United States from warehouses in Lodi, California and Jarrell, Texas. Pickup in Lodi Monday to Friday, 9am to 4pm. Questions: support@onyxautomobilia.com.